BEAUTY AT A COST: THE TOXINS IN OUR CULTURE'S HAIR STAPLES

In February, a bombshell study by Consumer Reports confirmed the presence of carcinogens in several popular synthetic hair brands. The findings sent shockwaves through the Black haircare community, sparking viral videos, heated think pieces, and thousands of comments across social media platforms and beauty blogs.

The outcry was immediate and deeply emotional. To some outside observers, the intensity of the reaction may seem baffling. It’s just hair, they might say. And fake hair at that. But to dismiss the significance of this study is to ignore the weight of history—one where Black consumers, particularly Black women, have been continually exposed to personal care products formulated with little regard for long-term health.

Betrayed Consumer Trust

This isn’t the first time a product marketed to Black women has come under fire for containing potentially toxic ingredients. In fact, it’s part of a disturbing pattern where beauty and personal care brands have failed to prioritize the safety of Black consumers.

Take chemical hair relaxers, for instance. A 2022 National Institutes of Health study found that frequent use of chemical straighteners was associated with a higher risk of uterine cancer. Black women, who are the primary users of such products, were disproportionately affected. In response, a wave of lawsuits has been filed against major beauty conglomerates, including L'Oréal and Revlon, alleging they knowingly sold harmful products without adequate warnings.

There’s also the ongoing controversy around Johnson & Johnson’s talc-based baby powder. For years, internal documents revealed that the company specifically targeted Black and Hispanic women in marketing campaigns, even as concerns about ovarian cancer and asbestos contamination mounted. The product was eventually pulled from the North American market, but not before thousands of lawsuits and a massive blow to consumer trust.

Other cases include skin-lightening creams containing mercury, hair products with endocrine-disrupting chemicals like phthalates and parabens, and fragranced items with undisclosed toxic ingredients. Many of these products are heavily marketed to Black consumers and sold in stores that specifically cater to them. Studies by groups like the Environmental Working Group and Silent Spring Institute have consistently shown that beauty products marketed to Black women often contain higher levels of hazardous ingredients than those marketed to white women.

So when the Consumer Reports study revealed the presence of benzene, which is a known carcinogen, and other toxins in synthetic hair, the reaction was more than justified. It was a breaking point. A culmination of years of distrust, neglect, and the quiet fear that looking good could come at a devastating cost.

Understanding the Real Risk

But here’s where nuance is crucial. Some individuals called out ways the Consumer Reports study is not only potentially misleading but needlessly hysteria-inducing.

The presence of the known carcinogen benzene in the hair products, while concerning, is not necessarily cause for immediate alarm in all cases. The other carcinogens tested in the study fall under Probable and Possible status, meaning they're not yet confirmed as carcinogens, but compelling evidence points to them being so.

Additionally, the study tested for heavy metals such as arsenic and lead, the latter of which was found in 9 out of 10 synthetic hair brands. While there are no federal limits for the amount of lead in synthetic braiding hair, any presence of the mineral raises eyebrows.

According to the full results of the Consumer Reports study, the amounts of known, probable, and possible carcinogens found were in levels not significant enough to cause harm without long-term, cumulative exposure. For people who occasionally wear synthetic hair, the danger may be minimal. But for professional braiders, stylists, or individuals who wear synthetic styles regularly and for extended periods, the cumulative exposure could present a more serious health concern.

Noticeably, the study did not specifically address the components acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride found in Kanekalon hair, both of which are toxic to humans. An earlier 2023 report by Chrystal G Thomas did, however, address this in depth.

"The Occupational Safety and Health Administration's maximum permissible exposure limits of acrylonitrile and vinyl chloride over an 8-h time-weighted average are 2 ppm (0.002 g/L) and 1 ppm (0.001 g/L), respectively.8 To braid a full head of hair, stylists typically use eight, 26-inch extension packs. This equates to continuous exposure to 800 g of modacrylic fiber for up to 6 weeks."

Instagram user Lab Muffin Beauty Science, professionally known as Dr. Michelle Wong, offers knowledgeable counterpoints to the incendiary report amidst a storm of controversy. In response to a concerned Instagram user, Dr. Wong points out that these two chemicals are indeed toxic to humans, but when bonded together, their structure is changed making them potentially less harmful. Still, Consumer Reports does not include these two substances in their testing, for unknown reasons.

Moving Forward as Informed Consumers

That doesn’t mean the public should ignore the findings. But it does mean that responses should be rooted in informed concern, not panic. It’s a call for more transparency, better regulation, and a beauty industry that values the health and well-being of its Black consumers as much as it values their buying power.

Because for us, it’s never been just hair.